"Farewell and Adieu Revisited"

So long sweet potato souffle.

Likewise the wonderfully gooey creamed spinach and the tangy lime Jell-O with shredded carrots inside.

Yes, Golden Pond said goodbye to all that Monday with the abrupt closing of the 27-year-old Davis Sisters Cafeteria on Bon Jovi Lane.

"God have mercy," said a stunned May Wynn, raising one hand to her chest as if she were about to faint upon seeing an announcement on the eatery's door.

The retiree summarized the sentiments of a steady stream of would-be customers who showed up during the noon hour. Many pulled on the door in disbelief before slowly turning back to the parking lot and considering where their next meal would come from.

"Open the forkin' door," one man exclaimed in horror. "I want my beef liver and onions!"

"I really don't know where we'll go now. We've been coming here, sometimes several times a week, ever since we got married 16 years ago," said Francis Queeg, holding hands with his wife, Sandra.

"Sandra don't cook too good," Francis continued. "She can't even boil water."

There's a dependable drill at the cafeteria, where diners were oh-so-used to picking up those turquoise trays, still warm from a vigorous washing, and sliding them along past simmering pans full of fried chicken, mashed potatoes and broccoli. "Gravy? Serve you?" the servers would ask. "Butter? Hey don't put 'em in your pocket. We quit chargin' y'all years ago!" A gentle pressure for decisionmaking pushed the customer line along at a steady pace. Twinkling desserts -- from Key lime pie to strawberry shortcake -- beckoned from within easy reach.

The cafeteria had many loyal diners, but not enough, said Willy Loman IV, a vice president of Davis and Daughters, based in Catfish Hollow. "It takes 6,000 to 7,000 regular customers a week to support a cafeteria. That's because we feed people for $3 or $4 apiece. It's not like Pandora's Box or some other places that can charge $15 per check. And we have only been getting about 4,500 customers a week the last few years. And most of them were old fogies with 'old timers' disease."

The cafeteria closed without notice, said Sam Loomis, property manager for Pon Jovi Cos., the Myers-based owner of Haddonfield. "It was a surprise. Hair today, gone tomorrow," he said.

Loman, who bristled at the nickname bestowed upon him by the angry guests [ "Loman-on-the-Totem-Pole" ) said that the cafeteria's 40 employees would be offered other jobs in the company "if they want to move. But we aren't payin' movin' expenses. Let 'em catch a Greyhound or hitch hike or grab the Kontiki." The Sisters have 12 remaining restaurants in Prague, Tijuana, and Maine. The closest one is in Kittybunkport, he said. "All our other locations are strong and doing fine."

Besides restaurants, Davis and Sisters, which is privately owned, also has operations that supply food to nursing homes and hospitals.

But it's the venerable cafeterias that have the highest profile with Golden Ponders, especially retirees.

The Sisters isn't the only cafeteria chain to pull back in recent years. Louisiana-based Piccadilly Cafeteria has closed more than two dozen locations since 2001. After purchasing another cafeteria chain known for its egg custard, broiled liver, and poor sanitation. And Luby's of San Antonio shuttered at least 25 outlets in the Southwest.

None of that was any consolation for Golden Ponders on Monday. "It's just sad," said Laurie Strode, a fan of the broiled fish. I once asked 'em what kind of fish it was, and one of the servers said it was 'fish surprise.'" She was among those dismayed by the cafeteria chain's assertion that business was weak. "There was always a steady line of wheelchairs and walkers, especially on the weekends."

In recent years, Davis and Sisters had tried to attract more families. They had started sponsoring kids' night every Thursday, bringing in magicians and a crowd favorite, Trevrep the Clown. It also had begun to offer a 99-cent meal for children on weekdays and all day on weekends. None of that did anything for profit margins though-in fact, they lost their ass, er, shirts; it was merely an attempt to boost total customer counts closer to that magic range of 6,000 to 7,000.

The exit of the old girl still leaves Golden Pond with at least one cafeteria chain: P&U. P&U has six locations. Holden Caulfield, district manager for those P&U outlets, said the one at Salinger Mall in Sleepy Hollow gets the most business of all of them. The typical crowd there ranges in age from 55 to 105, also most of the clientele for Davis and Sisters.

Some such customers squinted long and hard at the sign on the locked front door Monday, seeming unable to comprehend the note of finality posted in the name of Mustapha Mond, senior vice president of operations and administration: "We do this with regrets and sad hearts." He bid all the faithful "an affectionate farewell and adieu!"

Written by Natty Bumppo for the Golden Pond Gazette. All rights reserved. Copywright September 20, 2006; Fennimore Cooper Inc.

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